An Intriguing Hidden Gem in the Remote North
If you’re craving a taste of the true Wild West, Dawson City is a must-visit. This captivating town offers an authentic western vibe with its preserved boomtown architecture and rich Gold Rush history. It’s like stepping straight into a storybook from the past
Exploring Dawson City was an experience unlike any other I’ve had. An authentic old western town steeped in history, it’s one of those places where you can truly feel the past come alive with all the adventure and mystery that comes with it. A charming little outpost tucked away in the Yukon.
The Klondike Gold Rush Still Echoes Through the streets
During its glory days in the Klondike Gold Rush around the turn of the 20th century, Dawson City wasn’t just any town, it was the largest town in North America west of Winnipeg and north of San Francisco.
As I walked through the heart of the town, I couldn’t help being amazed by its roots. The core of Dawson City was constructed during that busting period, right at the base of the Yukon and Klondike Rivers. Surrounded by rivers and mountains, the setting is truly wonderful. The architecture certainly took me back in time, with most buildings reflecting the boomtown style, featuring Victorian and Edwardian details that add so much character.
The street grid is just as it was when it was first designed in 1897-98 with a townscape featuring historic buildings from 1896 to 1910. As I wandered around, I imagined what life would have been like during the Klondike Gold Rush and it wasn’t hard to picture the swirl of gold seekers, traders, and pioneers who once crowded these wooden pavements. Each building seems to echo the stories of those early days and with the old-west vibe it’s like something out of a gold rush-era post card.
One of the first things I noticed about Dawson is that the streets aren’t paved which is a part of its charm. Combined with the old wooden pavements, the place has this authentic Wild West vibe that makes you feel like you’ve stepped back in time.
As I walked through town I couldn’t help being charmed by the bright and colourful wooden buildings, all carefully preserved thanks to strict building bylaws that ensure conformity with the city’s historic appearance. Thankfully, this means that Dawson will retain its once-upon-a-time charm. The town itself is small and easy to explore on foot. It’s the kind of place where you’re invited to slow down and simply enjoy the rhythm of the present, strolling along the river, popping into quirky shops and cosy cafés. You can truly savour the experience and soak it all in.
And if you feel like stretching your legs a little further, there’s even more to discover. If you make your way uphill through town, you’ll be rewarded with an amazing view of the city, definitely a prime spot for snapping some great photos. From up there, with the rooftops below and the wilderness beyond, Dawson’s unique blend of history, nature, and small-town charm really comes into focus.
Get Local Tips at the Vistor Centre
If you’ve got any questions or just want some local tips, swing by the Visitor Centre. The staff there are very friendly and always happy to help. Chances are, you’ll walk out with some great ideas for things to see and do around town.
Brewed to Impress: Discover Bulletproof Bliss at Alchemy Café
One spot I absolutely loved is the Alchemy Café. The building itself has a great vibe and is full of character, and the coffee? Next level. I tried their Bulletproof Coffee, and yeah, it’s a bit pricey, but totally worth it. It’s made with two shots of espresso, coconut cream, coconut oil, raw cacao, and a touch of maple syrup. Seriously good stuff.
When the Ground Shifts: The Story Behind Dawson’s Crooked Buildings
You’ll notice a few crooked buildings around town, and no, it’s not just quirky architecture. That tilt is actually one of the early signs of melting permafrost. It’s similar to those slanted trees you see in some forests. Same cause, just a different setting.
Just to the right of the Alchemy Café, there’s a really striking example. The old crooked and leaning Third Avenue Hotel. The structure was built during the Gold Rush, right on top of what was then permanently frozen ground. The heat from the buildings would gradually melt the permafrost underneath, but not evenly. Depending on how a structure was built or how it settled, that melting could either preserve it or send it slowly sliding into the mud, like what happened here.
The hotel was originally constructed in 1899, with its distinctive top façade added in 1902. The two smaller buildings next to it were once home to a photography studio, which operated from 1907 to 1933. The last tenants moved out in 1944.
While many historic buildings in Dawson have been restored, the Third Avenue Hotel has been left untouched as a kind of time capsule, giving visitors a real sense of how harsh and unpredictable the climate and life in the North can be.
Lips to Toe: Dawson’s Strangest Rite of Passage – The Legendary Sourtoe Cocktail
Undeniably, the most unique and slightly offbeat, thing you can do in Dawson is take the infamous Sourtoe Shot at the Downtown Hotel, right on Second Avenue. It happens nightly between 21:00 and 23:00—and trust me, it’s an experience you won’t forget.
Here’s how it works: You head to the bar and order a shot of booze that’s at least 40% alcohol. Then, things get weird—in comes the toe. Yes, an actual human toe, lost to frostbite, is dropped into your drink. The proceedings are conducted by what is known as “The Toe Captain”, a straight-faced character stationed at a table by the entrance of the establishment.
The rules are simple, and slightly unconventional: You have to drink the shot with the toe in the glass. It must touch your lips—no lip contact, no glory. Once you’ve done the deed, you earn the official Sourtoe Certificate and join the elite ranks of the Sourtoe Cocktail Club.
The certificate itself is pure gold. It declares, in the presence of witnesses, that you’ve downed an authentic Sourtoe Cocktail, followed in the footsteps of the legendary Captain River Rat, and that you have proven to be a person capable of almost anything. Therefore you’re fully entitled to bear the certificate with such rights and privileges as may at any drunken moment be decided upon. This is the official certificate for being “badass”
Believe it or not, the toes used in the Sourtoe Shot are actually donated by people who’ve lost them to frostbite, as mentioned earlier. Just a tad mental, right? Currently there’s only one toe left in circulation, so it’s kind of a big deal.
Back in 2014, there was a person who showed up, did the shot and swallowed the toe. Yes, straight up gulped it down. At the time, the fine for doing that was 500 CAD. He paid it without blinking and just walked out. Ever since, they’ve raised the penalty to 2,500 CAD to discourage any more toe-chugging antics.
It’s all in good fun though, and it definitely draws a crowd. If you’re planning to do it, I’d recommend showing up early to beat the rush. The Downtown Hotel itself has an awesome Western vibe, complete with a live piano player cranking out old-time saloon tunes that make you feel like you’re in the middle of a classic cowboy movie. It’s an experience you won’t find anywhere else.
The Pit and People Watching: A Must-Visit at Westminster Hotel
If you’re into people watching, the Downtown Hotel is a great spot, but there are other places in town that offer just as much entertainment—like the Westminster Hotel on Third Avenue, also known as “The Pit.” You’ll quickly see why it has that nickname once you step inside.
The place is full of character, with a quirky, kitschy vibe that somehow enhances its charm. It’s a bit of an eclectic mix, but that’s exactly what makes it interesting. Plus, if you’re in town on a Friday or Saturday night, you’re in for a treat, there’s always great live music filling the air.
Checking out the Westminster is definitely a must if you want to experience the real, authentic side of Dawson. It’s a place where locals and visitors alike come together and you’ll get a feel for the town’s unique character just by hanging out there.
Lattes, Beards and Ballgowns: The Eccentric Appeal of Dawson
Dawson is such a cool and quirky town. It is great as you never really know who you’ll run into, or in what context. I’d be sitting in a trendy café, and across the room there’s this big, bearded guy covered in tattoos and piercings sipping a latte. Then, right next to him, a group of women all dressed to the nines in vintage or fancy outfits, looking like they just stepped out of another era. It’s this unexpected, delightful mix of people that makes the town feel so alive and pretty entertaining.
Bombay Peggy’s Inn: Where History and Cosy Charm Collide
A property with a rich history is Bombay Peggy’s Inn. It’s a neat Victorian hotel with a cosy little bar that’s perfect for unwinding. Built in 1900, the inn was originally located by the river at the corner of Front and Albert Streets. However, in 1998, the building was relocated and moved to its current address at Second Avenue and Princess Street. At the time, it was pretty run down and some parts were even rotten. So, it had to undergo a major restoration that took 14 months to complete.
Moving the structure was surprisingly straightforward. They lifted it, placed it on a wheeled platform, and simply rolled it to its new home. The inn’s first owners were involved in the mining industry, but over the years, it was used as both a family residence and a boarding house.
One of the most notable figures in its history was Margaret Vera Dorval, also known as Bombay Peggy. She took over the property in the early 1940s and ran the local whorehouse and bootlegging operation right out of the inn.
Today, Bombay Peggy’s Inn has a warm, inviting atmosphere with its classy interior. Definitely a cosy place to relax and soak in some local history.
Boomtown Architecture at Its Best: The Yukon Hotel’s Timeless Appeal
The Yukon Hotel on Front Street is a fascinating piece of history. Originally built in 1898, it was first known as the Binet Block. Back then, it was rented out for government offices, and it wasn’t until 1900 that it became a hotel, though it went by a few different names until 1957.
What really stands out about the Yukon Hotel is its classic boomtown-style architecture, complete with a three-story false facade that gives it that iconic Gold Rush-era look. It’s one of those buildings that instantly takes you back in time and gives you a real sense of Dawson’s rich past.
Step Into the Klondike: A Night at Diamond Tooth Gertie’s
If you’re looking for a fun night out, Diamond Tooth Gertie’s is the place to go. Located on Fourth Avenue, it’s a classic casino with a fun Klondike-era vibe, complete with dancing girls and lively entertainment. The best part is, that it’s owned by the Klondike Visitors Association, and all the proceeds go right back into the community.
I’d say it’s definitely worth a visit, whether you’re into the games, the atmosphere, or just want to experience a piece of Dawson’s history.
Strolling Along the Yukon: River Views and the Historic SS Keno
Taking a walk along the Yukon River, just across from Front Street, is one of the nicest ways to soak in the beauty of the area. You’ll get stunning views of the river, the surrounding mountains, and the city itself. Down by the water, you’ll also find the SS Keno, a historic riverboat that’s definitely worth a visit.
The SS Keno was actually the smallest riverboat of its kind to sail the Yukon River. The largest, the SS Klondike, is based in Whitehorse. You can even walk aboard and explore the boat for yourself. Built in 1922, the SS Keno transported silver, zinc, and lead ore from the Mayo district mines to the confluence of the Yukon and Stewart Rivers, headed to Stewart City.
During the Klondike Gold Rush, river traffic was booming, with around 60 riverboats, also known as sternwheelers, operating on the Yukon River. It’s amazing to think about the hustle and bustle of those days when you’re standing there, looking at the SS Keno today.
Chasing Gold in Dawson: The Legend of Bonanza Creek
As I walked around Dawson, it’s hard to miss the several monuments scattered around town, each one honouring the rich history and the heyday of this fascinating place. One of the most striking is the “Tribute to the Miner,” dedicated to the gold miners—past, present and future. And yes, there are still active gold mines in the region today!
It all started back in 1896 when gold was discovered at Rabbit Creek, later known as Bonanza Creek. The discovery was made by Skookum Jim, George Carmack, and Dawson Charlie, following a tip from another prospector, Robert Henderson. This sparked the famous Klondike Gold Rush of 1898 and Dawson City was born.
After the gold was found on Bonanza Creek, prospectors from all over the Yukon River tributaries staked claims on Bonanza and Eldorado Creeks. Some had already been prospecting along the Indian River drainage and Hunker River, with decent results. Word spread fast about the gold discovery, and thousands of eager miners flocked to the area, staking claims wherever they could including halfway up the valley slopes. Interestingly, some of the richest claims were found in those very spots.
The key to finding gold was following the ancient stream beds, where placer gold had settled in the gravel. The gold-bearing creeks of the region generally radiated out from King Solomon Dome, and many miners spent all their energy digging into what they thought was the heart of the gold source. To this day, the exact location of the “mother lode” is still a mystery, with geologists still searching for answers.
Striking Gold and Protecting the Land: Mining in Dawson Today
When the people first flocked to the Klondike, most had no idea what they were getting into. They didn’t understand how slim their chances were of striking it rich or even of making a living from mining. The 1890s had already seen a recession, so this was more about seeking adventure and the hope of wealth than about understanding the realities of gold mining.
Gold pans were a miner’s best friend back then. They were essential for testing the ground, making sure their techniques were effective and of course, sorting the gold at the end of the process. Gravel and gold were hauled up to the surface using windlasses, then shovelled into sluices to wash out the precious metal. Early on, mining was incredibly labour-intensive, but as time went on, more efficient methods were developed. Eventually, steam-assisted techniques were introduced to tackle the deeper layers of gold. A self-dumping mechanism was developed in Klondike.
Interestingly, the methods used today aren’t all that different. Miners still look for sedimentary deposits, ancient streams, and places where erosion has moved rocks downstream, leaving gold behind. The tools have certainly changed, though picks and shovels have been replaced by bulldozers, excavators, trucks, and pumps.
There are now strict regulations to ensure that the landscape isn’t destroyed in the process. The land must be contoured properly, and there can’t be any unrestricted flow of sediment into the rivers and streams. The challenge now is finding ways to extract the gold without wrecking the environment. That wasn’t always the case, especially in the early days around Dawson, when mining was done without environmental safeguards and before regulations were put into place.
The Mighty Yukon River: A Lifeline Through History and Nature
The Yukon River is truly a marvel. It’s the third longest river in North America, stretching an impressive 3,185 kilometres (1,980 miles). It drains a massive basin that spans over 840,000 square kilometres (324,326 square miles), which is 25% larger than the entire size of Alberta or Texas!
The river has always been a magnet for life, drawing people to its banks for centuries. The native peoples of the area spent most of the summer and early fall fishing, hunting and gathering edible plants along the river. Later, in the mid-1800s, traders and prospectors arrived, building posts and settlements that marked the beginning of a new chapter in the region’s history.
The river even played a vital role in transportation, sternwheelers travelled all the way from the Bering Sea to Whitehorse, making the Yukon River a key route for trade and exploration.
The Pioneering Journey of George Dawson: From Predictions to Dawson City
In 1887, the Federal Government decided to have the Geological and National History Survey of Canada map the Yukon District of the North West Territory. The growing boom in placer gold mining was attracting more and more miners and prospectors, and the government wanted to get a better understanding of the region. Their task was to survey the boundary between the Yukon and Alaska, a massive undertaking.
Geologist George Dawson was in charge of the Yukon expedition, with surveyor William Ogilvie joining him. Dawson ventured deep into the wild, remote lands of the Yukon to survey, study and record everything he could—geology, botany, geography, the native languages, and even the local legends. Despite struggling with poor health most of his life, Dawson achieved more than anyone else to map the Canadian West. Though he never actually saw Dawson City himself, he had predicted the discovery of gold in the Yukon River Basin a full ten years before the Gold Rush hit.
In 1897, William Ogilvie surveyed the town site, and it was he who suggested naming the town in honour of George Dawson. On January 9, 1902, Dawson City was officially incorporated.
Floods of the Past: Dawson’s Battle Against the Yukon River
Dawson has experienced 22 floods since the townsite was first established in 1896. While many of these floods were minor, five of them caused severe damage to the town. Most floods on the Yukon River happen in the spring when large blocks of ice pile up and block the narrower or shallower parts of the river. As the water builds up behind these ice dams, the floods are triggered.
The worst flood happened in 1979. Ice jams in the Yukon, Indian, and Klondike rivers caused the water to overflow the makeshift dikes along Front Street. The floods surged all the way up to 6th Avenue, with water reaching as deep as 2 metres (about 6.6 feet) in some areas. Although the water only flowed for about an hour on Front Street, it caused massive damage. In total, 250 claims were filed to the government disaster program and it took years to fully repair the damage.
To prevent future flooding, a new 2-metre (6.6-foot) tall dike was completed in 1987 and since then, the town has been safe from floods.
Building the North: Fort Herchmer and Dawson’s Journey Through the Gold Rush”
With the influx of gold rushers pouring into the area, it was decided in September 1896 that a fort should be built for the North West Mounted Police (NWMP) near Dawson City. The goal was to maintain law and order both in Dawson and across the goldfields, as well as patrol along the Yukon River. Construction on Fort Herchmer began the following summer in 1897.
By 1898, Yukon was officially recognized as a territory, and the federal government realized the need for a strong administrative presence. Over the next year, several important public buildings were erected, including post house barracks, officers’ quarters, a hospital, a quartermaster’s store, offices, and even 58 jail cells. Fort Herchmer quickly became the administrative centre of Northern Yukon.
From 1901 to 1902, more impressive buildings went up, including the Commissioner’s residence and the Territorial Court House, which faced the Yukon River. The court house was built in the Neoclassical Revival style and it became one of the region’s most iconic buildings. But as the population of Dawson dwindled after the Gold Rush, the need for judicial services decreased. By 1910, the courts were moved to the Territorial Administration Building on 5th Avenue.
In 1914, the NWMP took over the court house after their own headquarters burned down. They held onto the building until 1950 when St. Mary’s Hospital burned down, and the court house was converted into a hospital.
The Lost Patrol: A Chapter of Mystery in Dawson City’s RCMP History
On Front Street, the Royal Canadian Mounted Police (RCMP) have a strong presence, and their history in the region is fascinating. One of the most compelling stories from the past is that of the Lost Patrol. From 1904 to 1921, the North West Mounted Police, known by that name back then, had an annual tradition of delivering mail and dispatches between Dawson City and Fort McPherson, which was about 765 kilometres (475 miles) away in the Northwest Territories.
But in December 1910, the RCMP commissioner decided to reverse the route, asking that the journey be made from Fort McPherson to Dawson City instead. The trip was led by Inspector Francis J. Fitzgerald and on December 21, they left Fort McPherson, ready for what should have been a routine patrol. Unfortunately, they never made it to Dawson City. The patrol became known as the “Lost Patrol.”
A native guide, Esau George, was hired to lead them through the first part of the trip. Fitzgerald, trusting George’s expertise, let him go once his part of the journey was complete. From there, Fitzgerald placed his trust in Special Constable Sam Carter to guide them through the remaining leg of the journey.
By January 12, 1911, the patrol was hopelessly lost—Carter had failed to locate Forrest Creek, the key route that would have led them to Dawson City. Desperate and disoriented, they turned back toward Fort McPherson. But the Arctic winter was relentless. Starving, frostbitten, and weakened, they could only manage a few kilometres each day. In a grim bid for survival, they were forced to eat 10 of the 15 sled dogs they had brought with them.
When the Fitzgerald patrol was over a month overdue in reaching Dawson, concern turned to alarm. On February 28, 1911, a search patrol was dispatched to find the missing men.
On 21 March 1911 George Kinney and Richard Taylor of the Fitzgerald Patrol were found dead. The former of starvation and the letter of a self-inflicted gunshot to his head. The others left for help and had died due to the cold and lack of food only 40 km (25 miles) from Fort McPherson.
There were several reasons behind the patrol’s tragic failure. Carter had only travelled the route once before and, after losing their way, the team spent precious time searching for the correct path. They didn’t have sufficient food, and the brutal temperatures, plunging as low as -51°C (-60°F), only worsened their situation.
Patrols continued until 1921, but after the tragedy of the Lost Patrol, key changes were made. A native guide was always hired, supply cabins and caches were established along the trail to guard against shortages, and the Forrest Creek Trail was clearly marked to prevent future mishaps.