Stunning Untamed Wilderness

Sheer rock walls, majestic waterfalls and deep hidden gorges, the Carr Boyd Range captures the pristine, spellbinding beauty of the Outback

Set amid the remote heart of the Kimberley region in north Western Australia, beyond the town of Kununurra, this striking landscape is a mesmerising tapestry of towering cliffs, sweeping waterfalls and tranquil pools that left me completely in awe of its raw splendour.

My Journey: Why I Chose to Explore the Carr Boyd Range

In 2019, I visited the Bungle Bungles in the Kimberley for the third time, one of my favourite places in the world. This was the second time I had flown in and out of Kununurra, and each time the journey above the open frontier was nothing short of exceptional.

From the sky, the Kimberley unfolded like a vast ancient canvas with views of the rugged Osmond Range, the shimmering expanse of Lake Argyle, the historic Argyle Diamond Mine and especially the dramatic contours of the Carr Boyd Range. Every time I looked down at the wild and remote terrain, I thought “I want to hike and explore this natural wonder”. It drew me in like a magnet with its untouched, primeval and out-of-this-world allure.

On my third trip, I shared this dream with the owner of the tour company I travelled with. As we flew over the range heading back to Kununurra from the Bungle Bungles, we found ourselves excitedly pointing out the amazing scenery to each other through the window, imagining future adventures and agreeing that Carr Boyd Range was an ideal place for an unforgettable hike.

That moment stuck with me. It was the beginning of turning a dream into something real. And years later, the tour was a reality and finally going there was just incredible.

Along with other fellow hikers and enthusiasts, I was especially invited to join the first tour of the Carr Boyd Range organised by the travel company.

The whole group met for a pre-tour briefing, and there was a palpable sense of excitement in the air. We were all part of something new and unexplored, heading into a landscape very few have ever seen before. It felt like being involved in something undeniably remarkable. For me, it was also the perfect culmination of years of imagining, planning and waiting for this vision to finally materialise.

Geology of the Carr Boyd Range

The Carr Boyd Range rises up to 560 metres above sea level and consists of a series of escarpments and north-westerly dipping slopes, intersected by steep-sided valleys and gorges that plunge as deep as 200 metres. A broad valley separates the northern and southern range, with low rocky hills containing the headwaters of Revolver Creek.

The rock types found are sandstone, siltstone, mudstone and shale, sediments deposited by a river delta and beneath a shallow sea 1.2 billion years ago. Together, these formations make up what is known as the Carr Boyd Group. Over time, creeks and rivers carved into the ancient Lower Kimberley surface, exposing and shaping the Carr Boyd Range 20 million years ago, when uplift caused the Ord River to cut down deeply into the surrounding sandstone.

The Uniqueness of the Carr Boyd Range

There are countless reasons to visit the Carr Boyd Range and delve into its uniqueness. It’s a majestic outback wilderness that stands apart for its dramatic enchanting landscape, deep gaping gorges, wide open expanses and an immense unbroken horizon. There are no signs or tracks, only utter isolation, the smell of dry grass, the sound of water and the quiet absence of human presence. Unlike the “untouched” national parks marked by infrastructure, this place truly is immaculate and as if nature is letting us in on a secret.

Essential Items to Bring on Your Hike

You’ll be on your own in remote territory, so you have to carry everything required for the trip. As I joined an organised tour, all meals and snacks were provided along with mosquito domes, sleeping gear and toilet paper. Since you’ll be carrying a full backpack for most of your hike, bring as little as possible. There will be swimming through creeks and there are plenty of waterholes perfect for a refreshing dip. One of the many great joys of the journey.

In our group, the guides created a simple “toilet” at each campsite, which was a hole in the ground behind a large rock, away from the creeks. When nature called, you did your business and covered it up with rocks.

How much you bring depends on the duration. My tour in the Carr Boyd Range was for five full days and here’s what I recommend you bring:

• Two pairs of undies
• Two pairs of socks
• Ankle-high sturdy hiking boots
• Toe-capped sandals for camp
• Hiking poles (depending on personal preference)
• A long-sleeve shirt
• A T-shirt
• A wide-brimmed hat
• Sunscreen
• Several dry bags
• Water bottles and a camel bag
• A head torch and a regular torch with additional batteries (as it will be pitch-black at night)
• A power bank (for your phone or camera)
• Toothbrush and toothpaste
• A couple of band-aids.

That’s it really. Don’t bring soap or deodorants, not even biodegradable ones as they are not great for the environment and you won’t miss them. There will be plenty of opportunities for swimming and that’s a pretty good wash. If you end up smelling a bit, trust me, everybody on the tour will as well and it won’t matter. So don’t worry.

With regard to hiking poles. I reckon they’re great for your back as they balance the load, but I only use them in specific terrain. On this tour, I mainly used them on the second-last day when we had a lot of uphill walking. I used them a tad on day one and they were more of a nuisance, especially when we needed to scramble or swim.

When it comes to headwear. On this tour, an additional cap would be useful. My wide-brimmed hat was a bit too big and hot at times, especially when pushing through thick vegetation. Also, for most of the hike, we walked in shade and were only occasionally exposed to the sun, so a cap would have done the job.

There’s an abundance of water in the area and you can safely drink from pretty much all the creeks and waterholes. Just make sure there is a stream, otherwise if it’s stagnant, avoid it, but in the vast majority of creeks it is all drinkable.

So, you generally don’t have to carry large amounts of water and the backpack won’t be too heavy.

How to get to the Carr Boyd Range Safely: A Brief Guide for the Adventurous

One of the best things about the Carr Boyd Range is its seclusion. There is no mass tourism. It’s untouched, far from crowds and offers solitude amid raw nature. Getting there can be a challenge, but those who make the journey are rewarded with the rare privilege of having this remarkable corner of the vast Outback all to themselves.

As mentioned earlier, the nearest town is Kununurra, a vibrant hub for tours and outdoor activities across the region. On my journey to the Carr Boyd Range, I flew into Kununurra and had pre-booked a group tour, which I highly recommend. You will be heading into untracked territory, so having skilled and knowledgeable guides is essential.

Personally, I also enjoy travelling with a group when heading into the wilderness. Everyone is on the same page and has similar interests – a passion for hiking, nature, wildlife, geology and adventure. During the trip, you share meals and enjoy lively conversations in the evening around the campfire, accompanied by a cuppa. The camaraderie enhances the experience and people are always friendly and helpful.

Getting to the Carr Boyd Range was an adventure in itself. On my trip, we travelled by chartered helicopter, which allowed us to reach the heart of the range quickly, bypassing the rugged terrain below.

Day 1: Into the Unknown Wilderness – The Expedition to an Untouched Paradise

The helicopter ride itself was pure awesomeness, the perfect way to kick off the unforgettable expedition. The thrill of the flight alone was exhilarating, and the magnificent bird’s-eye views of the Carr Boyd Range along the way, elevated the experience to another level. It just kept on giving. The sheer scale of the swirling rock formations and the striking gorges carved into the ancient landscape was breathtaking. An absolutely beguiling spectacle of nature.

We touched down in the heart of the Carr Boyd Range, in one of the countless unnamed gorges. None of the gorges, waterfalls or peaks are named with the exception of the end destination on the adventure: The spectacular Revolver Falls.

From this very spot, we began our adventure through this audacious Outback wilderness, starting to digest the scenery around us. The first leg of the trek led us along a level creek bed strewn with giant stepping stones, flanked by red rock walls and rolling hills. Despite the arid environment, there was still a fair bit of vegetation. The hike wasn’t strenuous but pretty hot. A nice stroll with loads of photo opportunities.

Water levels in this remote wilderness vary depending on the season. During my trip, most of the terrain was dry, but many billabongs and creeks still held water from the wet season, so several deep-water crossings were unavoidable. Boots, socks and pants got soaked, but I quickly adapted. It actually didn’t bother me. The main challenge was keeping my footing on the boulders with wet boots, as slippery surfaces demanded care. But that only heightened the sense of true adventure. So, a kind word of advice – as you meander through the wet areas, waterproof all your gear.

After we found a perfect camping spot, we stopped for lunch and set up camp. Leaving our large backpacks behind, we grabbed our daypacks, backtracked a bit and turned into a magical side gorge to explore the majestic scenery. The deeper we ventured, the more complex the terrain became. Boulder climbs and challenging swims tested both endurance and focus.

I found the swims tiring when they stretched 30-50 metres, as we made our way forward in all our gear and heavy boots, especially if we couldn’t stow our hiking poles. But that’s all a part of the adventure and I was in my groove. I enjoy testing myself and occasionally confronting my fears. That said, I only do things I am confident I can handle. I always say, never do anything stupid. If something looks too risky and you’re not confident or don’t possess the capability. Don’t do it.

Our route took us through a stone alley and a series of billabongs that culminated in a stunning waterfall as the perfect finale. From there, I decided to turn back to camp and have a bit of a rest so I would be ready for the next day’s journey.

Day 2: Swimming Through Creeks, Navigating Boulders and Encountering a Snake and a Bat Cave

On our second day, we pushed deeper into the range, surrounded by beautiful towering red rock walls that offered us much-needed shade from the intense sun. We waded through billabongs and swam through creeks fully clothed, with our backpacks floating in front of us as a makeshift raft and as an effective support. We continued by navigating across boulder fields, where every step demanded focus, as the hiking boots were wet, which made the rocks slippery and the footing precarious.

As I meander through the bush, I always like to take my time. I may stop to admire the lovely wildflowers and take plenty of snaps of the spellbinding scenery. As we moved on, some parts of the terrain became easier with dry creek beds giving our legs and feet a welcome break. Personally, I don’t find boulders too challenging as long as I have dry boots, and I tend to jump between the big ones which works for me.

We arrived early at our campsite, settled in, and packed up a light daypack for another adventure into a nearby side gorge. This section turned out to be even more demanding with a mix of steep scrambles, more intensive boulder-hopping, long swims (remember to waterproof everything) and gruelling climbs that truly tested our resilience.

Along the way, we even spotted a death adder snake, a venomous fellow. I was walking leisurely, barely half a metre away, completely unaware of its presence. One of our guides pointed it out, and it took me a moment to spot the snake, so perfectly camouflaged among the rocks. Luckily, it was having a lazy little afternoon nap, allowing us to continue without any close encounters.

I love these side journeys into ravines, as I feel like I’m stepping into a hidden world, with every twist and turn revealing secret pockets and a faint sound of water trickling somewhere. It’s so magical.

Towards the end, we reached a cave and startled a colony of bats that suddenly came bursting out, all guns blazing, in a flurry of wings. We continued deeper inside and climbed into the cave itself, discovering small waterfalls and secret ponds tucked away. What an awesome sight and the absolute pinnacle of the day.

From there, we started turning back and I could feel the swims were testing my strength. It’s tough hauling yourself through water with heavy leather hiking boots. But it’s all part of the adventure. As we returned to camp, it was nice to have a chill, a cup of coffee and as always, after a nice tough hike, dinner tasted even better. There is something deeply satisfying about pushing yourself and seeing it through. It’s rewarding and requires you to be fully present in the moment.

Day 3: More Wades, Swims, Rocky Terrain and Several Stunning Waterfalls

We started day three weaving through a ravine, where creeks and boulders lay scattered beneath magnificent red bluffs. Along the way, we ventured onto side trails, curious to see what fascinating detours or hidden gems awaited. The beauty of the gorge is that every turn hinted at something incredible.

Soon, we reached our first waterfall, pure natural splendour. A ravishing billabong lay at its base, and the wonderful, refreshing dip we took was absolute bliss in the intense heat. Just what I needed. After the swim, we climbed the falls to another pond located right above it, complete with a gentle cascade of crystal-clear water and some welcome shade. How awesome is that? The ideal spot for a chill.

Not far from there, we came across yet another astonishing ribbon of water. Just beyond it, we set up camp early, which was well-earned after two demanding days and with a big challenge looming on day four. Before calling it a day, we continued a little further to a third drop-dead gorgeous “vertical river”. This one would be our major task for the next day: To climb this 10-metre obstacle to venture further into the beautiful gorge system.

To reach it, we hiked through bush and over massive rocky terrain, treading lightly near the slippery rocks at the end. This sizzling and final liquid curtain of the day was fronted by an inviting pond, with yet another small pond above it, based at the falls. This was utterly ethereal. We went for a splash, swam toward the coming day’s challenge, and soaked in the anticipation. It felt like it was both intimidating and thrilling.

Afterwards, we returned to camp. Most of us had a bit of a chill for the remaining part of the day, mentally gearing up for the coming day’s adventure.

Day 4: Climbing the Waterfall and Chasing Even More Spectacular Falls

We started the day with the big hurdle: Climbing the 10-metre waterfall. Honestly, it wasn’t as hard or scary as I had expected. In the very capable hands of our guides, the ascent felt surprisingly easy. We scrambled up a short section, zigzagged along a few ledges, before one final push to the top. Dignity intact and no worries at all!

At the summit, we were rewarded with a picture-perfect view. Looking back below us, down through the gorge, the tranquil pond shimmered below the cascade, while ahead, nature’s corridor stretched out into the distance with streams winding between towering rock faces.

This would be a day defined by waterfalls.

The trail led us across boulders and a rocky plateau. Absolutely stunning terrain. Soon, we came upon another waterfall with a clear pond below it, then a slender veil of water spilling into a dip-worthy pond surrounded by drop-dead gorgeous scenery.

And the pleasant surprises didn’t stop there. Not far along, this wonderful place just kept on giving, yet another otherworldly falls appeared, framed by dramatic cliffs and a winding creek. A little further on, more fantastic cascades tumbled into view. Nature really stuck to the theme, and it completely blew me away.

Later, we reached a shaded oasis where lush vegetation clung to the red rock walls, dressed in their leafy best. An unexpectedly flourishing pocket in the otherwise rugged terrain. I found that to be such a wonderful surprise. It was like stepping into a secret garden, curated by a flamboyant landscaper or maybe just nature showing off. Either way, I certainly loved it.

Eventually, we made our way to camp, perched beside yet another absurdly beautiful plunging stream and an inviting pool, practically begging for a swim. After a long hike under the intense sun, I wasn’t about to say no to a plunge. The cool water wrapped around me like a welcome embrace, washing away the sweat and fatigue. Another bang-on perfect campsite, where the constant soundtrack of tumbling water promised a night of serenity. Good stuff.

Day 5: Across the Escarpment Towards Revolver Falls

This day brought the biggest challenge of the trip: Navigating a terrain of dense vegetation and boulders, and climbing a mountain escarpment. We also had to carry additional water, knowing we would not come across many waterholes in the intense heat. So, no swim-throughs. Still, as an experienced hiker in the Aussie bush, I didn’t find it too difficult, but it was a day that demanded awareness, as you had to be conscious of water supply, snacks and staying sun-smart with sunblock and headwear.

This was the day with the most elevation gain and the thick overgrowth and water channels in places made it tricky to find good footing. As mentioned previously, I prefer to take my time, partially to conserve energy but mostly just because I love capturing the beauty around me. I may find myself at the back of the group, soaking in the view and catching those magic moments through my lens. It makes me think about the Yes song “Into the Lens”, where lead singer Trevor Horn sings, “I am a camera”. The line always stuck with me and some days, it really does feel like that.

We chose to climb the hillside in areas to avoid the dense growth below. That effort paid off as we were rewarded with sweeping panoramic views of towering rock walls. A scene so staggering it brought the whole hike into focus.

At one point, we dropped our backpacks and took a side hike down to a hidden waterfall. Absolutely astonishing. Just when we thought we had seen every kind of natural shower, this little gem appeared, quiet and tucked away, proving that nature still had more tricks up its sleeve and magic to share.

This was also the perfect opportunity to hydrate, grab a snack and refill our bottles from a nearby stream. After a much-needed break, we pushed on through another patch of harsh vegetation and began making our way uphill. The heat was intense and we made a few brief stops to catch our breath. Not far from here, we started the big ascent up the slope. When we reached the top, it was all worth it, as we were treated to a phenomenal view of the escarpment stretching across the gorge and the winding path behind us laid out like a story of where we had come from.

From the very top, we had a perfect glimpse of our final destination in the far distance, the massive rock face lying opposite Revolver Falls and how astonishing it looked from afar. In fact, as previously mentioned, it’s the only place name in the Carr Boyd Range.

I find going downhill fairly easy in most cases if you do it right. The best way of approaching the challenge is by going sideways. This way you have better control of your footing by sliding down the ridge-side. Going down was much faster than ascending.

Once we were down, we reached a pond, good for a head plunge, but not clean enough for a drink as it was a still pool. This was very welcome in the scorching heat. After a regroup and a much-needed break, the continuation was pretty straightforward but without shade. We came to a plunge-worthy waterhole, also an ideal spot for a lunch break and a full-body dip if needed.

Afterwards it was straight on towards the end destination of the day and the whole tour. This part of the hike was on pretty even ground. We passed by an awesome boab tree, which is my all-time favourite tree. Always a good snap moment.

Soon after we arrived at the rock pools of Revolver Falls. Absolutely breathtaking scenery. We were met by massive cliff face opposing the waterfall, as seen earlier from a distance. The most impressive view of the whole trip and a perfect climax of the whole tour. So marvellous that it is nearly impossible to put into words or capture the grandeur on camera.

After a long and hot hike it was just world-class to take a dip in the conjoining rock pools. “Just like paradise” as David Lee Roth sang back in 1988. Right before entering the pool section, there was a spot perfect for a campsite, which was actually the best sleep I had on the tour as I found a soft sandy spot as opposed to many rock surfaces throughout the area.

The site was ideally shaped to make small excursions, to have a chill or to check out the delightful scenery from many different angles. As the sun set, I went down towards the edge of the gorge to view the changing colours of the rocks. Such a mind-blowing sight!

Day 6: Leaving the Magnificent Outback and Returning to Civilisation

The next morning, I rose early to watch the sunrise, with the changing colours of the rocks accompanied by the gentle chirping of the birds. To get to the best vantage point, I had to wander a bit. It was a bit of a mission, because, trust me, there were plenty of snap-worthy locations along the way. I happily roamed the area, trying out different angles to capture the perfect shots.

What a joy it was to stand there quietly, immersed in the rhythm of the landscape and taking in nature’s course. The birds, the light, the shifting hues on the rock wall right in front of me, unfolding before my very eyes in perfect harmony.

This morning, we were leaving the Carr Boyd Range. Before setting off, we enjoyed brekkie, and along with fellow travellers, took one last dip in the Revolver Falls rock pools. A paradise we were saying goodbye to and we had it all to ourselves for the past five days. How fortunate we were. Good times.

As we waited for our transfer back to Kununurra, the distant thump of helicopter blades echoed across the range. Soon, it appeared above the cliffs to pick us up. The flight back was out of this world. Doors off, seatbelts on, and striking views in every direction.

We hovered over Revolver Falls and glided across countless unreal spots. Once again, I found myself next to the tour company owner. Both of us pointing out breathtaking undiscovered treasures below us ideal for future adventures that begged to be explored. Such an extraordinary part of the world, full of untapped adventures waiting to be discovered destined for phenomenal hikes.

There’s always a special feeling when returning from an unforgettable trek in the wilderness. Even after such an exceptional tour, there is something comforting about being back in civilization and beginning to process the experience. Sharing a post-tour lunch, and later dinner, with the group was a real treat. Great company and a welcome change from the bush grub. What an absolute ace team we were.

Leaving Kununurra and the Outback

I always enjoy the day after a great and challenging hike in the wilderness. It’s so refreshing to wake up after a nice sleep in a proper bed, take things easy, and enjoy a quiet day back in town. I take my time, have brekkie, stroll through the streets, browse the shops and settle in for a leisurely lunch.

The Hotel Kununurra, where I stayed (and have frequented before), is a perfect lunch spot. The food is good, but more importantly, there’s no shortage of fantastic people-watching. The range of characters you see, from classic Aussie bogans to compulsive gamblers glued to the telly, watching sports with plenty of grog on the table. I was genuinely excited when I spotted Jerry Garcia’s doppelgänger, along with a mate who had some serious shakes going on. Absolutely brilliant.

Later that arvo, I headed off to Kununurra Airport, where I met up with two of the guides and a couple of fellow travellers. It’s a small airport with few departures and I love it that way. Soon, it was back to Darwin and further onward to continue the adventure.

Man, what a fabulous and joyful experience. The Kimberley Outback never ceases to amaze me. I was gobsmacked by its jaw-dropping beauty and wild charm. The whole experience will forever be seared in my memory, and the more time that passes, the better it gets. I can’t wait to return to this wonderful part of the world.